Cheese Fest

Archive for the ‘Hard’ Category

Stilton

With Christmas just around the corner, Stilton becomes an obvious choice for a post. In the weeks leading up to Christmas, many supermarkets are offering huge slabs of this famous festive favourite for very little money… but are they any good?

For reasons unknown, Stilton seems to have become associated with Christmas eating. Like dates, walnuts and Brussels sprouts, although available throughout the year, many people will only buy them over the Yuletide period. Is it because these things are considered so horrid that they can only be consumed once a year, under heavy intoxication?

In the past, I remember supermarket Stilton as this harsh, acidic, very strong wedge shaped lump that would attempt strip the lining of your mouth as you ate it. Indeed, I’m sure there are still shops that sell such gastric monstrosities together with spam and tinned boiled potatoes.

However, things have changed, and for the better. Whether the manufacturers or supermarkets have learned that this strategy does little for repeat sales and reputation, I don’t know, but the cheese has improved immensely and this can only be a good thing

It’s good, really very good, like Stilton should be. Strong in flavour, but not in attitude. Smooth and creamy both in texture and taste, with a robust, but not overpowering blueness. Just scrummy and for £4 for 550g (Tesco price), you can’t really go wrong.

Purchased from Tesco.

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia 2013.

(4/5)

Yarg

It sounds like a pirate cursing a stubbed toe and comes from Cornwall, a place notorious for it’s pirates during the 16th century. The name, together with the fact that it is wrapped in nettle leaves, conjures thoughts of a four hundred year old traditional recipe… however, this is not the case. Yarg Initially created in the 1980′s by Alan and Jenny Gray, Yarg is simply their surname spelled backwards. It sounds good though. The rind is covered with hand picked, blemish free, nettle (or wild garlic) leaves, meticulously laid so that no cheese is exposed. The result is a rather attractive dark, greyish green mosaic with a dusting of white mould that picks out the detailing and edges of the leaves. The pate is hard and crumbly, yellowing slightly towards the rind. The flavour is sharp, almost fresh, a bit like Wensleydale or Caerphilly, with light earthy and mushroomy overtones. The wild garlic version introduces a subtle garlicky flavour into the mix and is, in our opinion, the better of the two. Olympia is quite partial to this cheese, but I’m not so keen (but then I’m not a fan of Wensleydale or Caerphilly either). Having said that, if you are preparing a cheeseboard for guests, Yarg would make a good choice, adding both a visual and a flavour contrast.

Produced by Lynher Dairies Cheese Company

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia 2010.

(2.5/5)

Barkham Blue

This appealing soap-bar shaped cheese is made with Jersey cow’s milk, giving it a golden yellow colour and creamy texture.

Covered in a thin, sticky dark brown mouldery skin, it smells like damp stone. The skin is a little odd because it can almost be peeled off.

The pate is a creamy, golden yellow colour with dark contrasting bottle green veining. The texture, like brandy butter, soft and buttery, yet it breaks and crumbles under pressure.

It melts in the mouth with a sharp, blue flavour. It’s strong, but not aggressive, with a metallic “twang” and a slight fruitiness.

Note. As it ages, these interesting qualities fade and it can become unexciting.

Produced by: Two Hoots Cheese

Purchased from: Cheese Please, Lewes.

Reviewed by: Nick & Olympia 2012 & 2013

(3.5/5)

Caşcaval Brădut (Afumat)

Always on the lookout for cheeses we haven’t tried, I found this in a Polish delicatessen. It’s actually Romanian and probably their equivalent of vacuum packed, supermarket cheddar.

Ours was a small truckle, but it also comes in blocks and a plait (although I can’t imagine how one would plait cheese). It comes from Brădut, which is an area of Romania. This one was the smoked version, having a slightly darker appearance than its unsmoked cousin.

It is a softish hard cheese with a rubbery texture.

The flavour is quite bitter with a strong acrid smokey taste, but largely unexciting. Good with garlic sausage on crusty bread.

Produced by: Tudia Lactate, Romania

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia, 2012

(2/5)

Tornegus

The first thing that hits you about this cheese is its smell. Quite literally, in the face, with the soggy end of an old floor mop. Oh! what a stink! It smells like a zoo’s reptile house! But… my word, is it good!This cheese starts life as an ordinary Caerphilly from Somerset. Then it’s dragged, kicking and screaming, to Godstone in Surrey where some strange and evil magical rites are performed on it. The Caerphilly is washed in Kentish wine and covered in mint and lemon verbena. As it matures, it turns into… … the dark lord TORNEGUS!   Sticky. wrinkly, pinkish orange brown rind, coated with the blackened remains of the herbs. The pate is yellow and sticky, darkening towards the rind. Slightly crumbly but also soft and oily. Almost spreadable close to the rind. The taste is bitter, strong and pungent, like a good smelly Alpine cheese such as Morbier, Appenzeller or Fontina… times 10. It won’t be to everyone’s taste, because it is strong, but if you like strong smelly cheeses, it is fantastic!

Produced by: Eastside Cheese Company, Surrey.

Purchased from Cheese Please, Lewes.

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia, 2013

(4.5/5)

Harlech

Now, it has to be said that we are not fans of flavour added cheese, but this: wrapped in a bright orange jacket (presumably to reduce the chances of it being lost at sea) with its creamy pate and green flecks of horseradish, makes a welcome exception. Harlech It should come as no surprise that it smells of cheese and horseradish. Indeed, it is just a flavour added Cheddar, but the makers of Harlech got the mix just right. The cheese itself is a little sharp, a bit like a Cheshire, but then the taste of horseradish boldly marches in and makes its presence felt. Unlike many supermarket brands of horseradish sauce, the flavour of the horseradish is tangy, clean and fresh. It’s neither hot nor overpowering, but compliments the cheese to perfection. The whole experience is very satisfying and the bold flavours mean that it is just as at home in a salad sandwich as it is being nibbled with a glass of wine. Every good cheeseboard should have a flavour added cheese to add a touch of variety. Harlech is not only visually striking, but delicious and fits that requirement perfectly.

Purchased from Cheese Please, Lewes.

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia, 2013

(3/5)

Tomme de Vache

In a French motorway stop, there was a craft fair and a man selling cheese. Amongst his offerings was this rather gruesome looking object. Gnarled, grey with bits of white, it looks like a lead weight that’s sat at the bottom of the sea for a few years… so we had to buy it

About 4″ (10 cm) diameter, with a leathery, dirty grey rind, this little cheese looks like it has seen better days. The outside smells strongly of ammonia, like it’s been sat at the bottom of a pigeon coop for a few weeks.

The pate is a dirty yellow colour, greying towards the outside edge. It smells very strongly milky and slightly blue. The texture is soft, rubbery and creamy.

The flavour is, however, not strong. Slightly alpine, milky with bitter overtones. Despite its rough appearance, it is a rather delightful little cheese.

Reviewed by Nick, Olympia & guest reviewer, author John Bartlett

(3/5)

 

Beenleigh Blue

Wet and lumpy with randomly shaped holes and delicate blue veining, this cheese looks a bit like a yellowish Roquefort, but that’s where the similarity ends.

It has a pleasing, soft and crumbly texture. On first tasting, it is intensely blue, a bit like a Danish blue. From this, you imagine that what will follow will be sharp and acidic. You prepare yourself for the for the bite… but it never materialises.

What actually happens is rather weird and somewhat hard to describe. There’s a strange acetone like, alcoholic hit. Like someone’s hidden a sliver of pear drop in it, or opened a bottle of nail polish. This quickly disappears and leaves you with a very distinct walnut and burnt toffee like aftertaste. It almost doesn’t taste like cheese at all. Most unexpected, but thoroughly enjoyable.

Fantastic, because it is so unusual!

Purchased from Cheese Please, Lewes.

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia.

(4/5)

Wildblumenkäse

This rather peculiar and delightful offering was brought over, a couple of weeks ago, from Germany by Marjam (aka Maus) a lifelong friend of Olympia’s.It comes from the Allgäu in the Alpine area of southern Germany……and, yes, it is covered with wild flowers! Wildblumenkäse   The pate is a pale yellow, with the odd round bubble hole in it, very similar to many other Alpine cheeses. Of course, what makes this particular cheese rather unique is that they coat it in colourful, dried, wild flowers. Red, orange, mauve, white and green petals and herbs make it look more like pot-puris than a cheese, and it smells like it too. The rind smells of hay, lavender and aromatic pipe tobacco. The pate itself has a very faint alpine cheese smell. The flavour is mild, sweet and milky. The rind is edible, and it’s a good job too, because it turns this otherwise bland and unexciting cheese into something special. The rind tastes much like it smells: lavender; hay; flowers and herbs, with a subtle but definite underlying Alpine flavour. An interesting experience and definitely something to seek out if you find yourself in that part of the world.   [the feet in the picture are German cheese biscuits, called käsefüss (Cheesy Feet) also brough over by Maus ]

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia, 2013.

(3/5)

 

Gleann Oir

This rugged looking cheese from Tipperary, covered with white mould flecked with yellow may look a little off-putting to all but the ardent cheese buff. It is, however, one of those cheeses that may convert those that turn their noses up based on appearances.

The strong smell of ammonia given off by its gnarled rind, some may also find offensive, but it is worth persevering.

The pinkish, grey interior is soft and waxy with very little smell, just a gentle hint of goat.

It has a delicate, very pleasing flavour a bit like Morbier with a wonderful nuttyness and farmyard flavour. Wine brings out the goatiness which, otherwise would not be apparent. All together a very satisfying experience.

Purchased from Cheese Please, Lewes.

Reviewed by Nick & Olympia, 2012

(4.5/5)